Summer is the time for refreshing the palates with bright flavours, and so I’m back at Omakase@Stevens to experience Chef Kazuki Arimoto’s vision for summer. And it is an awesome unique rendition of summer with newly created dishes that evoke the feeling of warm breeze and mild refreshing tastes to counter the warmness. Silky tender abalone, bouncy creamy custard, one-of-a-kind sukiyaki, crispy unagi, very different from last summer and I love it!
One of the appetiser comes in the form of pretty little housemade tart shell filled with finely cubed Scallop layered with lots of goodies, such as Bonito, unique Kanzuri chilli paste. This paste is like premium chilli, taking as long as 6 months to make by first soaking in salt water and then buried in ice, followed by fermentation for 6 months, yielding a special blend of refractive umami and mild spiciness. The distinctive harmonised flavours of sweetness, light zest, mild savoury goodness, a touch of spiciness and bitterness come through together for a refreshing complex taste.
Can a clear-like-water soup packs lots of flavours? Yes, at this restaurant, where the essence of Amelia Tomato and other vegetables is carefully extracted to be mixed with Japanese Rice Vinegar and Wasabi oil. Looks so clear yet full of vegetable goodness that I can smell it the moment my face comes close to the soup. Amazingly, the zesty taste develops into a light sweetness as I drink more of the soup.
Kyoto Wagyu with Salted Pepper and sandwiched within Monaka is surprisingly so sweet and refreshing at the same time. Like summer’s refreshing light meaty snack.
Goma Tofu, made with potato starch and kuzu, which is a reinterpretation of our local kueh has this amazingly bouncy and creamy texture, which is like the best texture for kueh. The dish gets better with subsequent bites as different kinds of sweetness develops. The crunchy bits of zest, hint of herbal bitterness, umami of sea urchin and kombu, mild earthiness of sesame oil, combined with the savoury earthy sweet tofu, makes for delightful multitude of harmonised flavours.
Abalone from Izu is the best awabi because it is incredibly tender and slippery smooth, with super bounciness, due to being steamed in dashi and sake before being charcoal grilled for that hint of sweetness of char amid the mild milky briny sweetness of the awabi. With a touch of zest from yuzu, an iota of pungency from the airy garlic foam, the umami of the awabi liver sauce, the awabi tastes earthy yet at the same time like summer. The addition of soft fluffy barley is such a genius move because it absorbs the essence of the zesty, earthy sauce to integrate the taste into the meat when chewing on it.
Bouillabaisse sauce made with hamaguri, kinmedai bones and tiger prawns is like the ultimate briny sweetness that magically opens up the taste of the succulent pliable kinmedai to be so exciting, varied and dimensional. It gets even better with the light zest of the dollops of sauce. The asparagus, topped with kelp and oyster flower for the extra umami, is so tender and crunchy, juxtaposing perfectly with the flesh of the fish.
Instead of Katsu, Sukiyaki is served this season instead, which is so perfect for summer. The version here is so different from the one I had in Japan, in a good way, while retaining distinctive succulent creamy meaty sweetness of sukiyaki beef. Madeira sauce, sansho sauce and egg yolk work together to introduce different layers to the taste, where the sweetness, creaminess and herbal pungency lifts up the taste. Tastes so warm and so comforting. Love it.
Unagi here is specially prepared to feature crispy top and creamy core, thus going so well with the smooth, starchy, fluffy Koshihikari rice, where the special blend of 7 spices, called Kuro-Shichimi, can be added for that dash of excitement in taste. Kinoko can be added for the extra savoury sweetness. This is pure comfort good food.
Peach from Yamanashi, when paired with Raspberry and a cure dome made with Vanilla, Egg Yolk and Sugar, finished with dots of Yuzu sauce and Almond Jelly, speaks of summer in a mild soothing way. I mentally go, "Ah, lovely summer!" at the first bite. Super well balance of the myriad of flavours, yes, summer feels wonderful now!
Unique petite fours made with quality dark chocolate and plum wine.
Thoughts: Beautiful, Warm Summer translated into Beautiful, Delightful Cuisine
30 Stevens Road #01-03






